In a way one could say that Burgundy as a region resembles the real estate market of cities like New York or London. There are a few rarified spots where only the very rich or famous can build their palaces, some elegant neighborhoods dotted with great buildings and smart streets that command greater prices, larger working class zones and even slums, that thanks to gentrification, higher prices and the scarcity of land have become more livable or even desired and fashionable.
Following with our comparison, the town of Rully, in the Cote Chalonaise, was for many years considered a lovely middle class neighborhood: diverse, producing lots of white wine and some red wine, utilitarian, being the main center of production of Cremant de Bourgogne and distinguished enough, with 23 premier cru vineyards, geological extensions of it’s more aristocratic neighbors in the Cote de Beaune.
In fact Rully is located in the most northern part of the Cote Chalonaise; the village sits below the eastern side of a low-lying limestone ridge named La Montagne de la Folie, 'Mountain of Madness'.The ridge is a southern extension of the Cote de Beaune escarpment (its northern tip lies less than 3 miles from Chassagne Montrachet). It runs from north to south, dividing Rully from Bouzeron, the northernmost of the five Chalonaise wine villages. The premier crus are all located at the slope, where they not only benefit from the mineral soil but also enjoy a perfect exposure and access to the morning sun.
There is evidence of grape growing and wine making in Rully since gallo-roman times and over the centuries the village created a reputation for its wines. In the first quarter of the XIX century started producing sparkling wines and Cremant became the mainstay of the economic life of the area; even today almost 50% of its grape production is dedicated to sparkling.
Philloxera, two world wars, the big depression, industrial farming, one after the other, almost brought the appellation to extinction. By 1950 there was only 90 hectares of land under vine in the whole village. I took two generations to rebuilt and restore.
And exactly as in our cities, what once was overlooked now is highly regarded, what was condemned and abandoned now is bustling with activity. Established domaines and new vignerons have reduced dramatically their yields, lutte raisonee is almost standard practice, with many producers into organic and biodynamic farming. The wines, specially the whites, are reaching unparalleled levels of quality and again are the reflection of the beautiful terroir where they come from.
The vines of Rully grow on slopes that sit about 300 meters above sea level and are brown and lime for Pinot Noir and Clay and Limestone for Chardonnay. With their expressive nature, flower and citrus aromas, ripe but lean body and priced at a fraction of their neighbors in the Cote de Beaune the wines from Rully are one of the most intelligent choices and great way to enjoy Burgundy.
2013 Rully La Cree Domaine Belleville $36
2013 Rully La Perche Domaine Belleville $37
2013 Rully 1er Cru Chapite, Domaine Belleville $41
2014 Rully Les Saint-Jacques, Domaine A. et P. De Villaine $45
2013 Rully 1er Cru “Preaux” Eric de Suremain $40